If you’ve ever shopped for a suit and seen labels like “Super 120s” or “Super 150s” and had no idea what they meant — welcome to the club. The wool industry loves its jargon, but once you understand what’s going on, it actually helps you make a smarter buying decision.

The Short Version

The “Super” number refers to the fineness of the wool fiber. Higher numbers mean finer, thinner fibers. A Super 120s fabric uses wool fibers that are finer than a Super 100s. Simple enough, right?

But here’s where it gets interesting — finer doesn’t always mean better.

Breaking Down the Numbers

Here’s a rough guide to what you’re getting at each level:

• Super 100s-110s: The workhorse. Durable, holds up great for daily wear, and still looks sharp. This is what we recommend for a suit you’ll wear regularly.
• Super 120s-130s: The sweet spot for most custom suits. Noticeably smoother and softer than 100s, but still tough enough for regular rotation. If you’re getting one great suit, this is probably your range.
• Super 140s-150s: Luxury territory. These fabrics drape beautifully and feel incredible against the skin. Best for special occasions or if you rotate multiple suits and don’t wear one every single day.
• Super 160s and above: Ultra-fine, ultra-luxurious. Gorgeous for a wedding suit or a statement piece, but they wrinkle more easily and won’t hold up to daily abuse.

So Which Should You Pick?

It depends on how you’ll use the suit. We always tell our customers: think about your lifestyle first, fabric second. A guy who wears a suit five days a week needs something different than someone who suits up a few times a year.

For most of our clients, Super 120s hits the sweet spot — it looks refined, feels great, and doesn’t fall apart after a few dry cleanings. If you want to step it up for a special event, go for the 150s. You’ll feel the difference the second you put it on.

The best part about custom? We can walk you through fabric swatches and help you feel the difference in person. Numbers on a label only tell part of the story.

— The Blackwell Custom Team